Just got home from the wedding of dear friends Henry Hample (formerly of Washboard Jungle, now in several Cajun bands) and Yvonne Olivier, in Arnaudville, Louisiana, in the neighborhood where Yvonne was born and raised.
At one point during the ceremony, which was held in the shade of some large trees outside their beautiful 1840 home, a beat-up old truck drove by on the dirt road just as the wedding musicians played the Mazel Tov hora, and I whispered to a friend, "just another Jewish wedding on the bayou." To be fair, in addition to Henry’s soon-to-be-ordained-as-a-rabbi brother, a Catholic priest also officiated; all was right and proper, and you couldn’t have asked for nicer people or a happier mix of cultures than this mostly New York City and Southern Louisiana gumbo.
At the reception, Henry, still in tails and top hat, played a short set of classic Washboard tunes with the band before turning the stage over to the best Cajun band in Southern Lousiana, The Lost Bayou Ramblers. Featuring a couple of the Michaud brothers, with various other relatives and friends sitting in, they blew us away like a happy hurricane. My lovely wife, who despite having once been a professional modern dancer (in fact, we first knew Yvonne through the dance department at Sarah Lawrence College), has always been too shy to dance at weddings, etc., but we spent the night on the dance floor last night. It was heaven there on Bayou Teche, I have to say.
Of course, I may be over-romanticizing the place, having left New Hampshire in yet another $%^&* snowstorm a couple of days ago, and returning this morning to, unbelievably, another--who knows how I’d feel if I was down there in August, no air conditioning... but I can see why Henry came and stayed.
Though I was having too much fun dancing to care, the locals put us to shame at waltz and two-step. Dancing is clearly a tradition passed down generation to generation, and it was sweet to see, for example, Yvonne’s elderly father on the dance floor as much as ourselves, with dozens of pretty nieces and grandnieces and granddaughters and daughters and what-not for partners, all of whom knew their stuff. Of course with Yvonne’s background in modern dance, you might expect that some of her girlfriends would get pretty interpretive and expressive and generally out there, too, and they did.
We had a little time earlier in the day, and drove over to, as the highway billboard sign reads, "Historic Downtown" Breaux Bridge, a one-stoplight, just a half block in each direction town with more music per square foot than you can shake a stick at, where we listened to a good Zydeco band while we stood outside the window of the very crowded Cafe Des Amis. There was also a Cajun jam at the coffee shop catty corner across the street.
I have since learned that the Lost Bayou Ramblers were nominated for a Grammy last year, and that they performed up my way not too long ago, in Wolfeboro, NH. I hope they get lured back up there soon. Masters at lock-step Cajun grooves. mm-mmm.
On the other hand, maybe The Buskers can get some gigs in Opelousas or Lafayette. I think we’d fit in pretty good there. And I think I know somewhere we could stay.